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When assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known high-end names. However, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has left the family utterly shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks a family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small shop achieving such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has kept much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.